Column

Enjoying Winter the Matsuba-gani Way

Lisa K. Honda
Program Assistant, Stanford Japan Center

The sweltering heat and humidity of what would be called a very typical summer in Japan didn't seem so appealing three and a half years ago when I first arrived. I had heard stories about the summers in Japan, but the rush of heat that enveloped my body when the bullet train doors opened was almost like an unpleasant fume rather than a breath of fresh air. There was a short pause, a few low groans from my fellow group members and a comment from the middle-aged Japanese woman standing next to us, who was obviously suffering from the same syndrome. "Atsuine," she said smiling (and staring), as I noticed her lavender streaked hair. Being the only one understanding her at the time, I nodded in agreement and realized that she was not just being friendly, but seemed to be rather curious of our group of twenty something foreigners. Indeed, we looked more than a bit displaced, frolicking around in our out-of-season suits and carrying our oversized bags. We were arriving in Osaka for the first time after our orientation in Tokyo for the JET Program and even though we were warned beforehand, managed to think that the weather couldn't possibly be any worse than the hottest day back home.

This was my "real" first impression of the place I now call home, soon to be followed by countless fumbles and embarrassing incidents that slowly helped me get used to daily life in a society I thought I'd known well through my parents. But throughout the discomforts of being placed in a different environment and getting accustomed to "real" seasons, I was enjoying my time here partly because I discovered the seasonal delicacies of Japanese cuisine. When I think of winter, I think of eating. Actually, I think of eating all year round and look forward to the next season in anticipation of finding some of my favorite foods at the supermarket. Having grown up in southern California weather, this is precisely how I survive the hot and humid summers and the cold winters of Japan.

Just a few weeks ago, I made my annual trip out to a pension on the Japan Sea side of Hyogo Prefecture with my husband and our friends to enjoy dishes and dishes of different "kani-ryori". I really recommend taking a drive through the mountains to get to the Japan Sea side whether it is in the summer or winter. Athletic folk can also try diving in the summer and skiing in the winter. Coastal areas of Hyogo and Kyoto are nice places to start off with in the Kansai area. My husband and I usually visit a place called Takeno near Kasumi in Hyogo, which is famous for Matsuba crab and all kinds of other seafood. Our evening course usually starts with uncooked crab, which we cook to our taste over charcoal. Next, we have boiled crab (my favorite), which we have with some vinegar dressing. After we've eaten two whole Matsuba crab each, we have "kani-nabe", a stewed dish, and to top it all of, we have rice porridge made out of the leftover nabe. Feeling like I can't eat any more for the next few days, I amaze myself the next morning when I clean off the entire breakfast served.

On our way back to Osaka, we take a drive through Kasumi to visit the Asa-ichi market to buy fresh crab and other omiyage (gifts) to take/send back to our families. Walking through this fish market is an experience in itself. I enjoy tasting the food, talking to the sellers and looking around for the best prices.
The only down side about going to the Japan Sea coast is that public transportation is very limited. Trains and buses are few and the best way to get around is by car. Highway tolls are hefty, but it's well worth it if you can get a few people together to enjoy a couple days of Matsuba-gani.



	English

Enjoying Winter the Matsuba-gani Way
Lisa K. Honda Program Assistant, Stanford Japan Center

The sweltering heat and humidity of what would be called a very typical summer in Japan didn't seem so appealing three and a half years ago when I first arrived. I had heard stories about the summers in Japan, but the rush of heat that enveloped my body when the bullet train doors opened was almost like an unpleasant fume rather than a breath of fresh air. There was a short pause, a few low groans from my fellow group members and a comment from the middle-aged Japanese woman standing next to us, who was obviously suffering from the same syndrome. "Atsuine," she said smiling (and staring), as I noticed her lavender streaked hair. Being the only one understanding her at the time, I nodded in agreement and realized that she was not just being friendly, but seemed to be rather curious of our group of twenty something foreigners. Indeed, we looked more than a bit displaced, frolicking around in our out-of-season suits and carrying our oversized bags. We were arriving in Osaka for the first time after our orientation in Tokyo for the JET Program and even though we were warned beforehand, managed to think that the weather couldn't possibly be any worse than the hottest day back home. This was my "real" first impression of the place I now call home, soon to be followed by countless fumbles and embarrassing incidents that slowly helped me get used to daily life in a society I thought I'd known well through my parents. But throughout the discomforts of being placed in a different environment and getting accustomed to "real" seasons, I was enjoying my time here partly because I discovered the seasonal delicacies of Japanese cuisine. When I think of winter, I think of eating. Actually, I think of eating all year round and look forward to the next season in anticipation of finding some of my favorite foods at the supermarket. Having grown up in southern California weather, this is precisely how I survive the hot and humid summers and the cold winters of Japan. Just a few weeks ago, I made my annual trip out to a pension on the Japan Sea side of Hyogo Prefecture with my husband and our friends to enjoy dishes and dishes of different "kani-ryori". I really recommend taking a drive through the mountains to get to the Japan Sea side whether it is in the summer or winter. Athletic folk can also try diving in the summer and skiing in the winter. Coastal areas of Hyogo and Kyoto are nice places to start off with in the Kansai area. My husband and I usually visit a place called Takeno near Kasumi in Hyogo, which is famous for Matsuba crab and all kinds of other seafood. Our evening course usually starts with uncooked crab, which we cook to our taste over charcoal. Next, we have boiled crab (my favorite), which we have with some vinegar dressing. After we've eaten two whole Matsuba crab each, we have "kani-nabe", a stewed dish, and to top it all of, we have rice porridge made out of the leftover nabe. Feeling like I can't eat any more for the next few days, I amaze myself the next morning when I clean off the entire breakfast served. On our way back to Osaka, we take a drive through Kasumi to visit the Asa-ichi market to buy fresh crab and other omiyage (gifts) to take/send back to our families. Walking through this fish market is an experience in itself. I enjoy tasting the food, talking to the sellers and looking around for the best prices. The only down side about going to the Japan Sea coast is that public transportation is very limited. Trains and buses are few and the best way to get around is by car. Highway tolls are hefty, but it's well worth it if you can get a few people together to enjoy a couple days of Matsuba-gani.